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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 31
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Ok the lady at the fish store told me i had to have a pump and an airstone and what not so the fish could have ait. But ive noticed in pictures of some tanks that people dont have air pumps. My question is simple, and i feel like an idiot for asking, but do i have to have an air pump to give the fish air?
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#2 |
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One Word: Croutons.
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You don't need it whatsoever. I only use them to create current in dead spots and get the film off the top of the water when I accidentally overfeed the beasts lol.
Also use them for brine shrimp and all.
__________________
If you put "u" instead of typing out the actual, shocking, three letter word... i'm not going to read your ramblings.
I'm so behind it's not even funny. |
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#3 |
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Advisor to Neptune (Mod)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Northern Illinois
Age: 40
Posts: 3,825
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Air gets in the water by surface water movement. The air does help create this but so do many filter systems. The more air you want in the water the more you surface movement you need.
It is simple but one of the most often mis-understood things. |
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#4 |
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I'm just a Twig
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: The Sticks
Age: 16
Posts: 964
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wait...i thought the fish breathed the air getting pumped into the tanks??? (now you've lost me) so all i need is top water movement in my tanks?
and is it possible to over aireate? |
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#5 |
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It's the Evil Monkey!!
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Kentucky
Age: 17
Posts: 1,112
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No you can't over oxygenate a tank. Oxygen is created by water movement and the bubbles that a air pump creates causes surface agiatation which creates oxygen.
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#6 |
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Aquatic Naturalist
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Fish do breathe air in the water. But even that can become depleted. Filters create surface movement. When the surface is broken (water being poured into the tank from you or a filter), it draws o2 into the water and releases CO2 (to the point of equillibrium). Airstones are usually not needed but higher water temps hold less water and less water movement may result in the need for one. For most tanks, this is never an issue.
__________________
For in much wisdom [is] much grief: and he that increaseth knowledge increaseth sorrow. ![]() Member of the AGA (Aquatic Gardner's Association) Member of the IBC (International Betta Congress) |
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#7 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 31
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ok my 10 gal has 6 zebra danios in it, and i havent had my airstone in, but they wont move from the surface of the water, is this a problem of them not getting enough air? They all stay about half an inch or less from the surface, or closer. Everynow and then one will dart off and go deeper, but they all seem to be up there, this isnt a problem is it?
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#8 |
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Member
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In my experience with Zebra Danios...(It was a really bad one, but that's irrelevant to this post) they stay up near the surface anyways. The ones I had just hung out up there. I believe they are top dwelling fish...(Someone else feel free to say if I'm wrong and I'll edit)
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#9 | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
__________________
29 Gallon tank ~6 Long Finned Black Tetras ~3 Bosemani Rainbows ~10 Serpae Tetras 55 Gallon tank - Planted ~2 Pearl Gouramis ~2 Platys ~16 Neon Tetras ~6 Glo Light Tetras |
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#10 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 31
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yes there is from the filter
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#11 | |
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Advisor to Neptune (Mod)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Northern Illinois
Age: 40
Posts: 3,825
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Quote:
Drew - How long has this tank been set up and have you had the ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite levels? |
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#12 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 31
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Sorry fish doc i dont have a kit to test the water yet, and the tanks been set up for about 4 days, i know these forums are against using fish for cycling, but i heard that zebras were good for cycling.
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#13 |
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Advisor to Neptune (Mod)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Northern Illinois
Age: 40
Posts: 3,825
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Danios do tend to stay in the top 1/2 of the tank. But if you have alot of plants or decorations that will also push them to the top. They like lots of free open swiming space.
The reason I asked about the lenght of time the tanks has been set up and ammonia is because in new tanks going through their cycling process the ammonia rises and fish will go to towads the surface for gulps of air to get around ammonia spikes. I wouldn't worry to much about them being near the top of the tank unless they become slow and stagnant. Danios are a active fish and always should be on the move. If they slow down do a partial water change and see if they perk up. In fact because you are only 4 days into cycling the tank it wouldnt hurt to be doing regular partial water changes already. |
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#14 |
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It's the Evil Monkey!!
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Kentucky
Age: 17
Posts: 1,112
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Go to the pet store with a baggie that has some of your tank water and tell them to test it and then write down the results. Another reason they may be acting this way is because a 10g is to small for danios the minimum size tank for them is a long 20g because they are so active and like to go back and forth at the top of the tank.
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#15 | |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 31
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Quote:
Can you help me out with the easiest way of doing water changes? Im totally lost on how to go about it, do i put the water in like jugs and then treat it with the dechlorinator, and then put it in the tank or what. Also whats the best way to get the water thats already in there out. |
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#16 |
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It's the Evil Monkey!!
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Kentucky
Age: 17
Posts: 1,112
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To do a water change is to remove some water and replace it with freshwater that has been treated with dechlor. I don't do it in my tanks, I just do vacum cleanings because my water stats are good and stable except in my bettas tanks which I do 100% water changes. The best way to take it out is to take a cup that has been washed but not recently and make sure it doesn't have a soap smell to it, you should rinse it out in hot water to be sure then dry it out with a paper towel and scoop water out into a bucket. I would remove about 20% of the water once a week or so.
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#17 |
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Advisor to Neptune (Mod)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Northern Illinois
Age: 40
Posts: 3,825
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The eaisest way is with a python.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...1&N=2004&Nty=1 One end hooks up at your sink and sucks the water right to the drain, You flip the switch and fill the tank. If you cant afford that you can use a syphon and bucket or even a cup and bucket will work during cycling of a 10 gallon tank. You pull a couple gallons out of the tank and then bring the bucket to the drain or plants if you want to water them and empty it. Fill the bucket up with new water add some dechlor and then slowly add it to the tank and your done. You can finger test the water to get it to a close temp as you get it from the tap. For a bucket I use a 5 gallon white painters bucket. I got it at walmart for I think it was $2.50 but any bucket will do. Just be sure it is clean and free of any cleaners and other chemicals. I would use one dedicated only for your fish use. |
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#18 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 31
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thanks durbkat and fishdoc, ill do a water change tonight and let you know how it goes, lol i hope it goes alright.
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#19 |
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It's the Evil Monkey!!
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Kentucky
Age: 17
Posts: 1,112
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Don't forget to get your water tested as soon as possible.
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#20 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 31
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yea, ill prbually invest in a kit here in the next day or two
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