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#1 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Age: 27
Posts: 8
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So I just got my API master test kit today. I was only able to test for ammonia for a while but had my LFS test it.
My readings: pH: 7.5 Ammo: .50 NitrIte: .25 NitrAte: 0 Tank has been set up for 4 weeks. I am not overstocked but stocked too quickly. Tank mates: 3 scissor tail rasboras (i know they are schooling fish, will get more DOWN the not so immediate road) 3 platys 4 mollies I have been fortunate, well.........kinda. I did have ich and treated it, but one of my mollies died of ich. Other than that, no other deaths. Except my betta RIP miss betta. She died of natural fish causes in my 10 gallon tank. She lived a good life. I had her for 3 years. Anyways, I tested my tap water for ammonia and it's reading is .50. Any advice on what I can do to get my parameters a little better? I know I should do water changes, and am doing them regulary (every other day, 9 gallons). Oh it's a 40 gallon tank. I don't want the expense of buying distilled water. What can I do about the ammonia in my tap water??? Any other suggestions? Please be kind, I am well aware I stocked my fish tank too much too soon. Oh, I do have my 10 gallon that I haven't done a gravel vac on in a while if it would help with my 40 gallon tank. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Age: 56
Posts: 551
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Kelly:
Yes: you do have a mess but IMHO nowhere close to being overwhelming.
With respect to the ammonia in your tap water use Seachem Prime as dechlorinate for WCs. This product will not remove ammonia as stated on the label but will reduce the ammonia to nitrates. Please immediately post your filtration equipment and after a week your water parameters. TR
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Hook Em Horns ... Keep Austin Weird |
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#3 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Age: 39
Posts: 2,901
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Quote:
I agree with underfeeding until you see nitrite go away. Cut back or skip meals if you have trouble doing enough water changes to keep ammonia and nitrite down. Change water when the ammonia in the tank gets into the "danger area". You might want to add additional Prime to the tank. I agree with "seeding" your new tank with old media or even old media squeezings unless there is a reason not to, like a disease in the other tank. You have a nitrite reading, so you are getting there. Once your tank is established, that much ammonia in the water change water will be almost instantly devoured by your filter. You don't need a new water source. But do smaller water changes (25% or less) until the tank is established and always use a "removes chloramine and detoxifies ammonia" water conditioner. Last edited by emc7; 03-27-2008 at 08:28 AM. Reason: sp |
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#4 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Age: 27
Posts: 8
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Thanks for the help. I have posted this on 2 other FF's and this is the first descent advice that I have been given.
I don't think my tank is completely cycled. I did a water change this morning of 9 gallons. I added a little more dechlorinator than advised, not much though. I don't know what you mean by filter substrate. I just vaccumed out the rocks in my 10 gallon and added 1 gallon of that to my 40g tank. Everything seems to be doing well. I haven't checked my water parameters yet since the water change. Filtration system, I am guessing it is an eclipse 3? I also have a biowheel for it too. |
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#5 |
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Rebel
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 525
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You have ammonia in your tap water? I have lived in a lot of places and never seen an ammonia reading in tap water. Do you drink the tap water? I know that this may sound extreme, but IMO if the water from your sink isn't good enough to drink then it isn't good enough for your fish.
If your 10g tank is doing well and has been for a while, you can take some of the filter material (like a cartridge with some goop on it) and place it in the filter of your new tank. This will seed your new tank with the nitrogen-fixing bacteria that destroy ammonia. Simply put, a bacterium eats ammonia and outputs nitrite. Another eats nitrite and outputs nitrate, which is harmless except at extremely high levels. So, take some of the stuff (quite literally anything) from your old filter and put it in your new one and some bacterial colonies will migrate. |
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#6 |
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Fish Guru
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Soon to be Northern Wisconsin
Age: 24
Posts: 3,506
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The ammonia in the tap is probably from the break down of chloromines with a dechlorinator (very common) however more ammonia would probably be coming from the fish at this point.
__________________
210 Gal Reef w/ 55 Gallon Sump/Fuge, 125 Gal Fish Only, 65 Gal Seahorse-29 Gallon Sump, 55 Gal FOWLR, 54 Gal Corner FW Community, 20 Gal Nano FOWLR, 55 Gal Piranha, 29 gallon QT "All the yellow tangs and clownfish in the world can't save you now! hahahah" Peter from Family Guy |
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#7 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Age: 39
Posts: 2,901
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Quote:
When the tank is completely cycled the nitrite reading will also drop to 0 and stay down. At that time you only have to worry about nitrate which are the least toxic of the 3. |
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#8 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Age: 27
Posts: 8
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I just did a water change this morning. My readings tonight are as follows:
pH 7.4 ammo .25 nitrIte .25 nitrAte .25 And no casualties!!! |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Age: 39
Posts: 2,901
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Thats great, the appearance of nitrate shows that the nitrite to nitrate bacteria are getting established.
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