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#1 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 9
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In my search for advice for my fishies I've had many people recommend a bunch of different products. I'm currently using Nutrafin products such as "waste Control", "Cycle" and "Auqaplus" but I've noticed many people seem to recommend "Prime" which is made by Seachem.
Question is, is it simply a matter of brand preference or are some products noticeably better. The main brands available to me are Nutrafin, Seachem and API. I'm not overly familiar with the Seachem product line so I get a bit confused when trying to figure out what to use. What is the difference between "Prime" and "Safe"? Are those products similar to "Aquaplus"? As well I'm assuming "Stabality" is similar to "Cycle" but what products are similar to "Waste Control"? And are any of these better than the others? |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Johns Creek, GA
Posts: 3,231
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I recommend Seachem stuff because they have always worked for me, Seachem supports our club here in Atlanta, and the sales rep. has come to meetings and explained their products to me. The other brands all claim to do the same things and many people swear by API products. But I only recommend what I know works. For details I look at their website, http://www.seachem.com/home/home.html. But if you still have questions, you can talk to them.
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#3 |
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Fish Guru
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Northern Wisconsin
Age: 24
Posts: 3,527
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Stability is much better than Cycle, as for water conditioners mostly the same... waste control is probably a waste of money
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210 Gal Reef w/ 55 Gallon Sump/Fuge, 125 Gal Fish Only, 65 Gal Seahorse-29 Gallon Sump, 55 Gal FOWLR, 54 Gal Corner FW Community, 20 Gal Nano FOWLR, 55 Gal Piranha, 29 gallon QT "All the yellow tangs and clownfish in the world can't save you now! hahahah" Peter from Family Guy |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
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In general you want to use the least amount of product you can in a tank. You should really not need anything more than a dechlorinator in a well established tank. Water changes can take care of most problems. There are exceptions to this, such as needing to add minerals and good stuff back into RO water, using salt in a tank for various reasons, and using medications to deal with specific diseases.
There are times when using products may come in handy, such as using some stability to help in a mini cycle, but even in that case increasing water changes will usually help just fine. In terms of brand preference it is a little bit of both of what you mentioned. Some folks just really like products they have always used and feel most comfortable with (I use NovAqua Plus as my dechlorinator, for example). And sometimes products are just not very good, such as Cycle which can actually deter the process of cycling. It just tanks paying attention and learning which is which
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Obsidian 20 gallon 1 Dwarf Gourami; 5 Cherry Barbs; 7 Black Neon Tetras; 3 Peppered Cory's; 1 Albino Bristlenose Pleco (Old Blondie) 10 gallon Breaking it down for storage. 5.5 gallon Betta 100 gallon 7 giant danios; 4 Rosy Barbs, 1 German Blue Ram, 7 Julie Cory cats, 2 Burmese Loaches; 5 Zebra Daios Last edited by Obsidian; 04-12-2008 at 11:07 AM. |
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Johns Creek, GA
Posts: 3,231
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I know that the "cichlid salts" and plant additives that are just minerals would be cheaper if I bought them by the kilo and weighed them out myself, but I like that someone has already done the math, and I just have to follow directions. I do think Prime is superior to plain dechlor because it helps with nitrite. However, Obsidian is right, you shouldn't need it in an established tank. Any dechlor should do. So you'd use the cheapest, right? But every time I have priced "store brand" water conditioners, Prime comes out cheaper dose for dose. Prime often costs 2 or 3X as much, but you use 1/10 as much. .5 mL / 5 gallons vs. a 5 ml capful.
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#6 | ||
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Age: 56
Posts: 601
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Quote:
Quote:
df122: When you get into test kits I have had very good luck with the TetraTest products. TR
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Hook Em Horns ... Keep Austin Weird |
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#7 |
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Senior Member
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OOOoo test kits. I had not thought of those.
You want a liquid test over the strips. Strips are often inaccurate and only provide a range not an actual number. That does not mean a liquid test is always that easy to read, which I would say is the con of liquid. API master freshwater test kit: Always a good choice.
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Obsidian 20 gallon 1 Dwarf Gourami; 5 Cherry Barbs; 7 Black Neon Tetras; 3 Peppered Cory's; 1 Albino Bristlenose Pleco (Old Blondie) 10 gallon Breaking it down for storage. 5.5 gallon Betta 100 gallon 7 giant danios; 4 Rosy Barbs, 1 German Blue Ram, 7 Julie Cory cats, 2 Burmese Loaches; 5 Zebra Daios Last edited by Obsidian; 04-13-2008 at 11:56 AM. |
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#8 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 9
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I'm using an API master kit right now and out of all the test kits at the store it was the cheapest one there by about 10 bucks.
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