Spring Water hard?

[Neon1]

Hello everyone. I have a question.

I've recently set-up a new freshwater 10 gallon tank (tropical). It just completed the first week of cycling with two scout fish (glo-lite tetras). I add Stress Zyme by API too on Thursday to bppst the cycle and aid in keeping the water clean. Testing the water with API 5-in-1 strips, everything is reading about what it should. My Anmonia is between 0 and .5 PPM, 0 Nitrates and Nitrites, PH about 6.5

But, my water is is testing very hard. I'm using bottled spring water since it's pure and contains so junk so I don't have to guesstimate the ammount of Aquasafe to use with tap water (and our tap water aint the best in the world). On the test strips, GH is coming out between 120-180 (max) and the KH at 240.

My fish are happy, swimming about, glowing, eating. Water isn't cloudy (now it is a bit because I just did about a 30% change (2.5 gallons) and loosend up some stuff) or anything.

Is this normal for the cycle, or for spring water. Does it generally test out that hard? ANy info would be appreciated. Thanks

[emc7]

Thats not really hard. Its normal for spring water to have some minerals, whether it is actually from a spring or simulated by a beverage company. Originally, people started drinking spring water because the minerals were thought to be healthy. Now people think a little epson salt in water tastes good. If you decide you need softer water (like for breeding neon tetras) you can blend it will RO (often sold as purified) or distilled water.

a GH of 300 ppm is hard (and idea for rift lake cichlids)

[Neon1]

Originally Posted by emc7

Thats not really hard. Its normal for spring water to have some minerals, whether it is actually from a spring or simulated by a beverage company. Originally, people started drinking spring water because the minerals were thought to be healthy. Now people think a little epson salt in water tastes good. If you decide you need softer water (like for breeding neon tetras) you can blend it will RO (often sold as purified) or distilled water.

a GH of 300 ppm is hard (and idea for rift lake cichlids)

Oh, ok. So since my strips max out at GH of 180, I should look into getting a different kit? Or as long as I'm using bottled spring water to replace the water I take out (which I intend to) I should be good and not worry?

[emc7]

If you are replacing water you take out with the same type, I wouldn't worry. But if you replace evaporated water with water that has any hardness, the water may get harder. But even that isn't a big deal. The water's hardness really is the least of your worries, ammonia and nitrite are what you should be watching.

It is best to change water with water that is similar in pH and hardness. The larger the water change, the more important the water be close. If it is much different, you need to add new water slowly.

You could buy a liquid test kit (suggested if you intend to keep live plants). Some of the "master kits" have pH, hardness, ammonia, nitrite, & nitrate tests all in one box. Some people on the board really bash the dip strips. The ones I've used have been accurrate, but I think they may have a shorter shelf-life than the drop tests. You could also buy a TDS testing pen, which just gives the amount (ppm) of dissolved ions. It won't tell you which ones, but a $20 device only needs batteries to keep it going indefinately.

Go look at test kits. Make sure you have ammonia and nitrite tests that you trust (ask LFS to test your water and compare results). Those are the ones that will keep you fish alive as you "cycle the tank".

[Neon1]

OK, Thanks. Yes, my water in the tank is bottled spring water, and it's replaced by the same exact water. I change out 2.5 gallons each change. I did a 5 gallon change on Thursday because the water was a bit cloudy 4 days into the cycle. After that change the water cleared up a bit, but not all the way. I added the Stress Zyme immediately after that change to boost the cycle and about 36 hours later the water was much, much clearer, almost crystal clear.

I changed 2.5 gallons tonight and removed some gravel (had a little too much) and replaced again with the same bottled spring water. I plan on doing another change on Thursday (a week form the day from adding Stress Zyme) and adding more Stress Zyme (The bottle says to add two teaspoons every 7 days when starting a new tank, and then 1 teaspoon a week to maintain. So Thursday would be the 2nd time I add it.)

Ammonia before the water change was .5 as mentioned, pH 6.5. Nitrates and Nitrites reading 0. GH between 120 and 180, and KH was maxed at 240.

Fish look fine, swimming around, glowing on and off.