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Old 12-16-2005, 08:12 PM   #1
j-man the skater-man
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Default peppered cory eggs?

i have a male and female cory and have identifyed cory eggs on the glass in my tank...

will they continue to breed?
what do i need to do with the eggs?
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Old 12-16-2005, 09:09 PM   #2
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Your Paleatus cories should continue to breed, depending how well you condition them. I spawn them in large colonies, and had them spawn 28 days in a row.
Depending on the number of eggs, you can pull the eggs or the parents. Under 100...I pull eggs. Over 100, I pull the parents.
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Old 12-17-2005, 11:13 AM   #3
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ok by pull do u mean in a different tank thats 100% tank water that they were in?

would putting the eggs in a breeder net in the tank they are in now work?

will feedin bbs and then super fine flake food work? do i need any meds to keep the babies from fungusing? they arent yet...

should i dose ferts and do water changes like normal if i leave them in the big tank?

Last edited by j-man the skater-man; 12-17-2005 at 11:21 AM.
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Old 12-17-2005, 12:36 PM   #4
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If you pull the eggs you will need small tank/container, a heater, an airstone and methyblu to prevent the eggs from fungussing. When you see wigglers, remove the methyblu using carbon. You can feed cyclop-eeze or any similar "meaty" fry food.

Remember, eggs are fish food so if you want to maximize the survival rate it is best to hatch and raise them on their own.
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Old 12-17-2005, 12:50 PM   #5
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ok i have a 5 gallon tank i could do that with, i have a spongefilter and a junior heater that keeps the tank at 74 (to cold im guessin)

is there a good site that would answer most of my basis questions?

like how to move the eggs
how to tell if they are already fungussing
how to treat with methyblu...use bottle directions or otherwise?

the basic questions
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Old 12-17-2005, 03:45 PM   #6
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Cory eggs are pretty tough an hour or so after laid. Some use a razor blade to remove them. I have always used an airline size syphon and syphoned them into a small tank. The eggs can be handled with your fingers.

Fungus is white- first the eggs will go white then the fuzzy stuff forms.

Use the methyblu as directed. be sure to remove it from water w/ carbon when you see wigglers.

74 is a tad cool- closer to 80 is better.

I am not sure on a good site- you might look on Planet catfish - http://www.planetcatfish.com/core/index.php
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Old 12-17-2005, 04:13 PM   #7
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ok is there any sure way to tell if they are not fungused and are fertilized?

my eggs are whiteish but the cory egg pics ive seen are of whiteish eggs??
how do u tell if its fertilized? just wait for a black dot to form?
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Old 12-18-2005, 01:08 PM   #8
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Yes, very fast you see the black dot. Cory eggs are more cloudy looking than solid white.
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Old 12-18-2005, 04:50 PM   #9
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methyblu... i looked for it and it in some products but didnt find it...what is it sold as?
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Old 12-18-2005, 07:04 PM   #10
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Sorry I spelled it wrong its "Methylene Blue"
http://www.bigalsonline.com/catalog/...tegory_id=3423
http://www.petsolutions.com/Methylen...I-C-40-C-.aspx
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Old 12-19-2005, 12:43 PM   #11
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i dont have any methylene blue but i am gonna get some...

until then i have a 5 gallon tank i can move the eggs to (some eggs are developing) but i have no light for the tank, (could use a lamp) and i have a sponge filter for it.

the tank is very nasty thought so should i clean all the fish poop and gunk out of it?
will the fry be ok if i do? if i dont?

if the eggs hatch what do i feed them? i have a bit of brine shrimp i can use but thats to big for them isnt it? they have yolk sacks so when do i need to start feeding?
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Old 12-19-2005, 03:53 PM   #12
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You don't need/want a light for an egg hatching tank. You do need a heater.

Two things are needed to raise fry: Clean, clean water and good food. Clean that tank out thoroughly before using it.

Go onto AquaBid and look for either Cyclop-eeze or BetterThanBrine from UncleRick.
You do not begin feeding until the egg sac has been completely absorbed.
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Old 12-19-2005, 04:47 PM   #13
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i didnt see cyclop-eeze or betterthanbrine on aquabid do these products have any other name? since they wont get here within a week what should i use for food until then for the fry that will have already hatched?
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Old 12-19-2005, 06:07 PM   #14
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shouldnt i use a 1 gallon container with a air stone for treating with methylene blue and once the fry hatch transfer them to a grow out tank?
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Old 12-19-2005, 07:17 PM   #15
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http://www.aquabid.com/cgi-bin/aucti...odo&1135640395 http://www.aquabid.com/cgi-bin/aucti...odo&1135948219
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Old 12-19-2005, 07:44 PM   #16
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is one product better than the other? can i feed the babies that hatch before the food arives anything? or will they starve before the get big enough for baby brine shrimp?
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Old 12-20-2005, 11:52 AM   #17
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http://www.planetcatfish.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8726
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Old 12-20-2005, 01:18 PM   #18
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ok i have a 5 gallon tank that im gonna fill with about 8 inches of water with heater and sponge filter

the tank is not cycled so i plan to do a 10-15% water change daily
i will feed with bbs after 3 days of the fry being free swimming

when i move the eggs i will use tank water...replace it with water of similar chemisty and temp? or dont replace the removed water?
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Old 12-24-2005, 09:27 AM   #19
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i have hatched the baby cory cats out...only one of five that hatched is wiggling around alot are the other ones dead? i have more eggs but the water chemistry of the first hatching or eggs is different from the eggs in the main tank now... so can i put the eggs in the main tank into the one with the hatchlings without harming either?
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