![]() |
|
|||||||
Members currently in the Chat:0
|
|||||
![]() |
Users In Chat Room: There are several users in chat now! Don't Be Shy - click here and come on in! |
||||
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
#1 |
|
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Age: 33
Posts: 98
|
Hi all,
I have a rack that build to hold a 40 breeder and a 30/29(12") tank in each of the three spaces. Well I didn't account for the extra 1/4" that the frame adds to the listed width on the tanks. My question: Can I remove both the top and bottom frame from 30 gallon All-Glass tanks? Has anyone done this? They would fir perfectly if I can do this and not at all otherwise. Since the only tanks that are 10" wide (the next less measure) that's pretty much my only option. However, if it just causes leakers it obviously isn't any option at all. I'm considering that I might be able to find acrylic tanks that are exactly 12" wide too. However, I've already got a number of the tanks so that's less than a perfect option too. See my DIY tank rack thread for images of the farked up rack. Thanks, Sven |
|
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: St. Louis, MO
Age: 29
Posts: 456
|
I would not take the frames off as they are for structural stability. If your rack is made of wood I would alter the wood to allow for the frame. Maybe with a chisel or a sander.
__________________
When you feel like this... |
|
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: St. John's, Newfoundland, Canada
Age: 37
Posts: 79
|
I think it depends on the type of tank. My euro-style tank's instructions clearly said that the frame was for looks only and was therefore optional. I did put it on after because I thought it looked funny without it.
__________________
32g Neon Tetras, Peppered Corys. Ottos |
|
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Age: 36
Posts: 177
|
I'd take a router and take off the wood off the rack to make the adjustment. Then again I know people took off the plastic trim and for support they placed a piece of glass in the middle of the tank (kind a like the 55 long) with the pastic trim in the middle so the glass wouldn't blow out. The thing is if you do this the rack board must be perfectly flat other wise it puts a pressure point on the bottom of the glass and well it may crack. I suppose foam core will help with that but just so you know. I'm in favor of trimming the wood since if the tank breaks you can just slide a new tank in it's place (less work in the long run).
__________________
It's only after we've lost everything, that we're free to do anything. |
|
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Age: 33
Posts: 98
|
Thanks for the calm words guys. My frustration was waned this morning and I took your advise mr. dark-saint. I whipped out the dremel tool and carved out space for the tank frames. 1/8" into the 2x4s can't make much impact on the strength of the wood. Since my calculations show that the stand should handle about 5x the maxuimum weight that one could fit on it if I filled it up I should be ok. I've now got compartment fitted up nicely.
Thanks again, Sven |
|
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Age: 36
Posts: 177
|
Good jobbie job. Just make sure the wood does not pinch or rub the frame of the tank. Stress points will crack the tank. So new up dates on your project (since the up dates are long and far).
__________________
It's only after we've lost everything, that we're free to do anything. |
|
|
|
![]() |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| My new design | ImagineAquatics | Equipment & Technologies | 6 | 08-11-2005 01:05 AM |