![]() |
|
|||||||
Members currently in the Chat:8
|
|||||
![]() |
Users In Chat Room: mesapod, WildForFish, Buggy, JustOneMore20, lohachata, Ricker, wm_crash, Suess00 Come On In! |
||||
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
#21 |
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Age: 50
Posts: 9
|
Just an update...
I've been doing 50% water changes every day and the cycle is pretty much the same: the Nitrite and Nitrate levels drop, but by the following morning (24 hours) they are back up there. At this point I cannot help but wonder if I have too many Fish relative to the tank size. I have two that are 3.5" in length, and two that are ~1.5" in length. I cannot help but wonder if the cycle of Nitrite and Nitrate will be broken unless I remove one of the larger fish given the amount of waste these no doubt produce. Algae: although the water color is somewhat green there is very little visible Algae on the tank walls. A few spots here, a few spots there. Lastly, should I be conditioning the water in between these water changes? Should I also be attempting to raise the pH given the frequency of these changes? Thanks, Lyman |
|
|
|
|
|
#22 | ||
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Johns Creek, GA
Posts: 3,283
|
It is possible you have too much waste for your system to handle. In this case you simply can't convert the nitrite to nitrate as fast as it is made.
Options for reducing nitrite are 1) reduce feeding, if cutting your feeding starves the fish, then remove extra fish. 2) add filtration, increase flow rate or add media to your existing filter and/or add another filter (sponge and box filters are cheap and effective biological filtration. Once you have nitrite under control you can look at nitrate. Know that most nitrate tests are inaccurate when nitrite is present. Options for reducing nitrate: 1) reduce feeding 2) increase water changes 3) add plants or algae to eat the nitrate. I really doubt you want to increase water changes any more or add algae. So either you are excessively feeding the fish or you have too many fish for the tank. I think you have already been told this. So removing some fish would help. You could also try only feeding your fish once every other day for a while. Quote:
Quote:
Unfortunately, even if you get the nitrite and nitrate under control for now, the goldfish will continue to grow and sooner or later you will right back in this situation. Have you ever considered getting a pond? |
||
|
|
|
|
|
#23 | |||||
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Age: 56
Posts: 613
|
lgl:
emc posted while I was preparing this post. If conflicts exist please defer to his post. Quote:
With the time I spent preparing posts in this thread I hope that you know that the following is only West Texas humor: Ah ha: Ah ha: Was not Jom's post not prophetic. Quote:
Please note that time which I have spent in post preparation is "more than well worth it" as you are diligently pursuing "making your fish happy campers". Quote:
I am not sure what you are saying here but once again "do not sweat it" whatever "it" is. The quantity of ammonia and nitrite digestion bacteria in you biological filtration system is "maxed out". You probably also have these digestion bacteria "maxed out" in "every crack and crevice" in your tank as well as the gravel, if you have any, in the bottom of your tank. There is a minor problem with the above but the results are "absolutely nothing compared to what you are dealing with now" Quote:
BUT you are obviously "doing something(s) very correctly here"! Quote:
IMHO unless the PH has fallen below 6 PhUp or similar products may cause erroneous concentrations of ammonia, nitrites and nitrates to be reported by you tests and should not be used. TR
__________________
Hook Em Horns ... Keep Austin Weird |
|||||
|
|
|
|
|
#24 |
|
Senior Member
|
I would really not mess with the PH because with all the water changes it would likely create PH swings which your fish will not fare well through. They have adjusted to your waters PH so I would leave it be unless you are in some emergency kind of level of PH. In which case any PH changes need to happen slowly and you need to deal with the Ph in the water being used to change it as well. Chances are very high that your water out of the tap is within a point of 7 (i.e. it is 6-8). If you are concerned test for it and post results
__________________
Obsidian 20 gallon 1 Dwarf Gourami; 5 Cherry Barbs; 7 Black Neon Tetras; 3 Peppered Cory's; 1 Albino Bristlenose Pleco (Old Blondie) 10 gallon Breaking it down for storage. 5.5 gallon Betta 100 gallon 7 giant danios; 4 Rosy Barbs, 1 German Blue Ram, 7 Julie Cory cats, 2 Burmese Loaches; 5 Zebra Daios |
|
|
|
![]() |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| High Nitrite levels | Hazarrd | General Freshwater | 4 | 01-15-2007 08:51 AM |
| latest on Nitrite, nitrate and ammonia levels | logans | Beginner Freshwater | 4 | 04-29-2006 12:57 PM |
| pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, Hardness, and Alkalinity of my new tank | logans | Beginner Freshwater | 3 | 04-02-2006 04:50 AM |
| Max's journal | maxpayne_lhp | User Journals | 9 | 07-11-2005 12:45 AM |
| Nitrate and Nitrite levels high | Alin10123 | General Freshwater | 4 | 05-26-2005 08:26 PM |