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Old 09-26-2007, 10:07 AM   #21
lgldsr
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Just an update...

I've been doing 50% water changes every day and the cycle is pretty much the same: the Nitrite and Nitrate levels drop, but by the following morning (24 hours) they are back up there.

At this point I cannot help but wonder if I have too many Fish relative to the tank size. I have two that are 3.5" in length, and two that are ~1.5" in length. I cannot help but wonder if the cycle of Nitrite and Nitrate will be broken unless I remove one of the larger fish given the amount of waste these no doubt produce.

Algae: although the water color is somewhat green there is very little visible Algae on the tank walls. A few spots here, a few spots there.

Lastly, should I be conditioning the water in between these water changes? Should I also be attempting to raise the pH given the frequency of these changes?

Thanks,

Lyman
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Old 09-26-2007, 10:46 AM   #22
emc7
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It is possible you have too much waste for your system to handle. In this case you simply can't convert the nitrite to nitrate as fast as it is made.

Options for reducing nitrite are 1) reduce feeding, if cutting your feeding starves the fish, then remove extra fish. 2) add filtration, increase flow rate or add media to your existing filter and/or add another filter (sponge and box filters are cheap and effective biological filtration.

Once you have nitrite under control you can look at nitrate. Know that most nitrate tests are inaccurate when nitrite is present.

Options for reducing nitrate: 1) reduce feeding 2) increase water changes 3) add plants or algae to eat the nitrate.

I really doubt you want to increase water changes any more or add algae. So either you are excessively feeding the fish or you have too many fish for the tank. I think you have already been told this. So removing some fish would help. You could also try only feeding your fish once every other day for a while.
Quote:
conditioning the water in between these water changes
Always use dechlor. And since these are goldfish and nitrite is high, I would add salt (aquarium or marine) at 1 tsp/gallon to the new water. So I would put dechlor, clean water, salt in a bucket and let it sit an hour then siphon the tank and refill. Salt isn't essential, but its supposed to reduce nitrite toxicity.

Quote:
should I also be attempting to raise the pH given the frequency of these changes
no, unless your tap water pH is extremely low (>4.5) which is almost never the case because water systems don't want corroded pipes. The frequency of water changes will keep the pH close the tap, and trying to adjust may cause fluctuations and additional stress. Some crushed coral in a bag in a filter (box or hang on back) may slowly increase hardness and help buffer the water, but its not really necessary. I say may because if your water is really hard to start with it won't do anything.

Unfortunately, even if you get the nitrite and nitrate under control for now, the goldfish will continue to grow and sooner or later you will right back in this situation.

Have you ever considered getting a pond?
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Old 09-26-2007, 11:12 AM   #23
jones57742
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lgl:

emc posted while I was preparing this post.
If conflicts exist please defer to his post.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lgldsr
At this point I cannot help but wonder if I have too many Fish relative to the tank size. I have two that are 3.5" in length, and two that are ~1.5" in length.
lgl
With the time I spent preparing posts in this thread I hope that you know that the following is only West Texas humor:

Ah ha: Ah ha:
Was not Jom's post not prophetic.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JustOneMore20
... Another reason for the high nitrates is that the tank is overstocked. I wouldn't even keep one Goldfish in a 10g. They are messy fish who produce alot of waste. ...
As I indicated the above is intended to be humorous and "please do not sweat it" as I have had many what could be very euphemistically termed "Many Adventures in Fishkeeping" such as the one which you are into.

Please note that time which I have spent in post preparation is "more than well worth it" as you are diligently pursuing "making your fish happy campers".

Quote:
Originally Posted by lgldsr
I cannot help but wonder if the cycle of Nitrite and Nitrate will be broken unless I remove one of the larger fish given the amount of waste these no doubt produce.
lgl:

I am not sure what you are saying here but once again "do not sweat it" whatever "it" is.

The quantity of ammonia and nitrite digestion bacteria in you biological filtration system is "maxed out". You probably also have these digestion bacteria "maxed out" in "every crack and crevice" in your tank as well as the gravel, if you have any, in the bottom of your tank.
There is a minor problem with the above but the results are "absolutely nothing compared to what you are dealing with now"

Quote:
Originally Posted by lgldsr
Algae: although the water color is somewhat green there is very little visible Algae on the tank walls. A few spots here, a few spots there.
I am completely lost here as my experience varies in that the green water should "go away" before a significant reduction in the algae on the tank walls
BUT
you are obviously "doing something(s) very correctly here"!

Quote:
Originally Posted by lgldsr
Lastly, should I be conditioning the water in between these water changes? Should I also be attempting to raise the pH given the frequency of these changes?
What is "conditioning the water"?

IMHO unless the PH has fallen below 6 PhUp or similar products may cause erroneous concentrations of ammonia, nitrites and nitrates to be reported by you tests and should not be used.

TR
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Old 09-26-2007, 03:28 PM   #24
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I would really not mess with the PH because with all the water changes it would likely create PH swings which your fish will not fare well through. They have adjusted to your waters PH so I would leave it be unless you are in some emergency kind of level of PH. In which case any PH changes need to happen slowly and you need to deal with the Ph in the water being used to change it as well. Chances are very high that your water out of the tap is within a point of 7 (i.e. it is 6-8). If you are concerned test for it and post results
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