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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Age: 21
Posts: 74
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alright, i jsut got back home this weekend and i have brown algea broken in out the my three 10g tanks. the one has a few guppies in it with screw in flopurescent lighting and two crypts and a anubias, the other on has 5 tiger barbs in it and the same screw in flourescent lighting, the third has two n. brichardi and a strip flourescent light on it, all three have a fair amount of algea in them and i just changed the timer so they only get about 8 hours of light instead of 10, anything else i can do. i already put out a request for ottos for the two tanks that done have the brichardi in them, should i just go buy some from the store or would they even help? thanks.
in 4 years i have never once had an algea problem, weird. |
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#2 |
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Aquatic Naturalist
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It a normal part of breaking in a new tank. Just keep up with the maintainence.
__________________
For in much wisdom [is] much grief: and he that increaseth knowledge increaseth sorrow. ![]() Member of the AGA (Aquatic Gardner's Association) Member of the IBC (International Betta Congress) |
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#3 |
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Zoo Keeper
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Canada
Age: 31
Posts: 222
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Actually the brown algae will turn into green algae. When you see that brown algae try to wipe if off because it's MUCH easier to get off then the green. Chinese algae eaters work awesome if you can get your hands on them. But you should know that they can get a bit aggressive as adults. I haven't had that problem though, just read about it. Im not sure what size your tanks are but if they are large enough you could always get a pleco.
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#4 |
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Aquatic Naturalist
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[quote=Doodles]Actually the brown algae will turn into green algae. /QUOTE]
This is not true. They are not even in the same family. 98% of brown algae in the aquaria (but not all) are diatoms. They thrive in water high in silica with lower lighting and poor water flow. Green spot algae (I am assuming this is the algae you are talking about) shows up when your No3 to Po4 ratio is off meaning you have high nitrates or high phosphates but not both. Brown algae will go away on its own with proper tank maintenence.
__________________
For in much wisdom [is] much grief: and he that increaseth knowledge increaseth sorrow. ![]() Member of the AGA (Aquatic Gardner's Association) Member of the IBC (International Betta Congress) Last edited by Damon; 10-06-2005 at 07:04 AM. |
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#5 |
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Zoo Keeper
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Canada
Age: 31
Posts: 222
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Wow, thanks for correcting me! I thought it all tuned into the green. Green spot algea is a real pain to get off.
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#6 |
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Senior Member
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Brown, or diatom algae, is common in new tanks. if theyre not newly set up, have you added anything different? different water source, or maybe some rocks? it's immune to lowering the light levels since it will just be more able to out compete other algae in the tank, in fact increasing light may help the plants, and other algae to compete with it. diatom algae feeds on silicates and phosphates, if you have hard water this may be a problem. if you just keep wiping it off, and removing it from the tank, not just knocking it down, it should stop coming back.
woops, i pretty much just restated what simpte said. |
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#7 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Age: 21
Posts: 74
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i think it is the different water as i moved a month ago, and i never once had this problem in the past.
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#8 |
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Aquatic Naturalist
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A change in water will cause some tnak issues. Fortunately yours isn't a serious one or a hard one to fix. The tank just needs to adjust. If you are really bothered by it, a diatom filter can be bought or a H.O.T. magnum with their diatom powder will fix it in a cpl of hrs.
__________________
For in much wisdom [is] much grief: and he that increaseth knowledge increaseth sorrow. ![]() Member of the AGA (Aquatic Gardner's Association) Member of the IBC (International Betta Congress) |
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#9 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Age: 21
Posts: 74
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im not real concerned with it, i was just wondering what the heck was going on, i also have a few plants in one and it was starting to grow on them, so i was wondering what i oculd do to keep it off of the plants, i think im gonna buy and oto or two and put him in that tank to keep it cleaned up. unless someone else has a better idea.
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#10 |
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Aquatic Naturalist
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Adding more plants, stronger light, and/or a softer water will help eliminate it quicker.
__________________
For in much wisdom [is] much grief: and he that increaseth knowledge increaseth sorrow. ![]() Member of the AGA (Aquatic Gardner's Association) Member of the IBC (International Betta Congress) |
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#11 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Age: 21
Posts: 74
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stronger light, would that mean laving the light on for longer periods or not?
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#12 |
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Fish Guru
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Northern Wisconsin
Age: 24
Posts: 3,546
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no - stronger means more intense, not longer duration. intensity relates to how many watts you have over your tank.
__________________
210 Gal Reef w/ 55 Gallon Sump/Fuge, 125 Gal Fish Only, 65 Gal Seahorse-29 Gallon Sump, 55 Gal FOWLR, 54 Gal Corner FW Community, 20 Gal Nano FOWLR, 55 Gal Piranha, 29 gallon QT "All the yellow tangs and clownfish in the world can't save you now! hahahah" Peter from Family Guy |
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#13 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Age: 21
Posts: 74
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ok, ill see waht i can do, thanks
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#14 |
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Member
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This problem does not go away on its own. It's not just a new tank thing. I had my tank set up for a year at my old house and it never went away, it only got worse (regular water changes and perfect water test results) and at my new house it continues to be a nusance. I got some of the "Phos-Zorb" stuff and it is helping slow it down, but it's still very much there.
Diatom filters are more $ than the HOT Mag, which does the job better? I don't care if one takes longer than another, just which one will get rid of this stuff the best. |
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