Eel skin problem---HELP!

[viperx70]

Recently, I purchased what was sold to me as a freshwater moray eel. I had never seen anything like it, and since I was told it could live w/o salt, I bought it. It's been fine up until about 4 days ago, now it's getting this kind of white fuzzy looking stuff on it's top fin, and on the end of the tail. The tail is also developing these reddish sores. I know the stuff on the fin isn't detritus. What could the problem be, and how do I fix it? Any help would be appreciated.

[Baby_Baby]

First off..
What are your water parameters?
White size tank is this freshwater moray eel in? (also known as snowflake eels, snow-spotted eels, and psychedelic eels.)
And how big is he?
They get up to 60cm
They are not really freshwater, though sometimes they can be found in freshwater. It is much better if you keep them in brackish water. If kept in freshwater, they become VERY sensitive.
They can live up to 35 years, so please be aware of this, and rethink if you can commit to that.
When scared they can and Will jump from your tank, so keep it well covered.

[fishbguy]

the white fuzz and sores are prolly from it being kept in fresh water. they need either brackish or salt water. how long have you had it?

[flamingo]

If it's getting sores and fuzz, get in brackish water as soon as possible, or it's going to die. It happens with a lot of brackish fish like this- but it's also common with ropefish, etc. It lasts about a week at the max, in most cases, before killing the fish.

[viperx70]

It's about 18 in. Long, in a 30 gallon tank. It seems to be very comfortable with it's surroundings. I keep my water at about 80 degrees f.

[flamingo]

Change the salinity if you can manage it, and take the temp down by about 5 degrees (all over a period of time).

[Baby_Baby]

They need to be kept in at least a 120 gallon tank.

[flamingo]

90 gallon minimum- but, I think they should worry about the disease killing it rather than a bigger tank ATM.

.

[viperx70]

How would upping salinity affect my marbled bullhead catfish? seems like it wouldn't like salt. I am going to return the eel to lfs, they should accept it on the grounds they lied to me when I purchased it.

[Baby_Baby]

Originally Posted by flamingo

90 gallon minimum- but, I think they should worry about the disease killing it rather than a bigger tank ATM.

.

I was simply wondering what size tank, because as we all know, the size of the tank can be directly related to stress, which is the number one cause of fish diseases.

Bull heads are very hardy, and depending on what type you have it could get up to 3 feet long.

Snail Bullhead (Ameiurus brunneus) 11”
White Catfish (Ameiurus catus) 3’
Brown Bullhead (Ameiurus nebulosus) 21”
Black Bullhead (Ameiurus melas) 25”
Yellow Bullhead (Ameiurus natalis) 18”
Flat Bullhead (Ameiurus platycephalus) 11”
Spotted Bullhead (Ameiurus serracanthus) 11”

Here is some information on Ichthyophthirius multifiliis ("Ich" or White Spot Disease)

A) The largest protozoan parasite of fish. The trophozoite are up to 100 microns diameter, ciliated and contain an oval horseshoe shaped nucleus.

B) This is a disease of aquarium and hatchery reared fish.

C) Clinically fish become hyperactive with fish flashing and cutting against rocks or sides of aquariums. As the trophozoites enlarge they cause hyperplasia of the epidermis with white spots forming on the skin and gills. Severely infected fish may have respiratory problems and die. Histologically there is epidermal hyperplasia with the encysted trophozoite present in the epidermis.

D) The life cycle is direct. Encysted trophozoites (trophont) leave the fish and settle to the bottom of the tank. The trophozoites (tomonts)divide into numerous tomites (theronts) which are released to infect the skin of the fish. The life cycle takes approximately 4 days to complete. However, it can be sped up by increasing the water temperature.



The only way to treat the disease is by interrupting the life cycle of the parasite. Removal of fish from the infected water for 3 days (25°C) will usually interrupt the life cycle (Tomites live only 48 hours at 26°C). One must treat the water to kill the tomites to prevent spread of the disease (Malachite green, formalin, methylene blue, or KMnO4). Remember, these treatments only kill the tomites and not the trophozoites that are encysted in the fish.

Refrence: http://www.aquaworldnet.com/awmag/diseases.htm (if it is not ich, click here and you can find some other diseases and treatments of)
http://www.thetropicaltank.co.uk/hdwspot.htm

Keep in mind that Note that malachite green is hard on scaleless fish like catfish and loaches.

In my experience with catfish, using a little bit of salt did not hurt them, but you have watch very carefully as to how much you are using.

[viperx70]

Thanks for the info, but I am pretty sure it doesnt have ich. I talked to another lfs, and they recommended that I try adding some aquarium salt. So I did, and now I am waiting to see an improvement in the fish's health.

[Scuba Kid]

you need to add marine salt in order the make the tank brackish. Most LFS don't really know what they're talking about anyway, so they shouldnt really be your main source of info. They will most likely end up leading you down the wrong path. They are what got you into this mess in the first place.

[viperx70]

Eh, true. But, I did go to a different LFS. The 2nd one I went to is pretty reputable, too. They've always been pretty helpful. I got the eel from a place i didnt know about, but had a better fish selection.