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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all, this is my first post for help since joining, so please bare with me!

I have a 1970s Stainless Steal Metalframe 29 gallon with hood. However since the hood is nearly 40 years old the light has to be replaced. Due to the size of the hood I had to go with a single bulb 65 watt retrofit meant for an Eclipse (2 I believe) Hood. The directions are all about how to install it in the Eclipse hood so its difficult to apply to the Metalframe hood, but doable.

The question: What should/can I do about ventilation?

I've read many reviews about how this retrofit puts off heat, and some people have added fans to their hood to keep it cool. Due to the size of my hood that is not an option. Also there are no holes or slots/slats in the hood. I have no idea how this worked back in the 70s, maybe they just didn't account for vent needs?

I do not wish to damage the integrity of the vintage hood, but should I to make it safer? The hood is Stainless Steal so I believe it will get hot to the touch if the light generates enough heat.

I am getting glass cut to fit over the light area to keep condensation from forming on the bulb and end cap. Could/should I leave a small gap between the glass and the hood to allow heat to escape?
Or would this allow water in too readily?

The manufacturer of the retrofit (Current USA) states that the end cap is suppose to be water resistant.

If I should just bite the antique bullet and cut/drill into the hood to make it safer, how should I do this? What tools would I need?

Thanks for any advise I get!
 

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do not alter the original hood.... that would be like cutting off grandmas legs because she doesn't walk so good anymore... there will be some air circulation with the actual operation of the tank... your filter and airstones will create an airflow and push air out of the various openings at the back of the hood... i don't think it will create enough heat to cause any problems though..
and why can't you be 56 instead of 26... lol.... i love the old metaframe tanks..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I love them too! I'm going to be getting another 15 or 20 gallon for my sister soon though she wont be having the light/hood problems because my LPS doesn't have anymore hoods.

As for age it is just a number, most of my friends think I act older than them and they're in their 30s and 40s...I don't know if this means I'm incredibly mature and settled or just boring though so...

Adding to my question:

I was planning on covering the bulb area with a piece of glass. I have the glass perfectly cut to fit, but now don't know how to secure it. I need it to be removable for when I need to change a bulb, but sturdy enough not to let the glass fall into the tank!

Any ideas would be great! I've already thought of magnets, but they dont "stick" to Stainless Steel.
 

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you would be better off to just have had the glass cut to fit the tank; then put the hood on.
 

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Sorry, I just noticed this post.
Did you buy the glass from a glass company? If so check with them to make sure the glass can handle the heat of the bulb. I have heard many stories of glass hoods cracking from the heat of the bulb and the cold water splash due to airstones, pumps, and such in the tank. The glass company may also have some way to mount the glass since that is their business. The one near me gets pretty creative with their ideas on all the strange projects people bring in to them.
This is why lohachata's idea would probably work a little better. You could lay the glass on the top of the tank. You can even buy the hinges if you wanted to run it like newer tops. Then you could have a couple non heat transferring spacers made of whatever you think would keep any heat from the hood traveling to the glass. Also make sure it is non-flamable. And you should be off to a pretty good start. Then you can modify that setup as-needed if you notice it getting to warm or staying really cool from there.
 

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The question: What should/can I do about ventilation?
I've read many reviews about how this retrofit puts off heat, and some people have added fans to their hood to keep it cool.
The hood is Stainless Steal so I believe it will get hot to the touch if the light generates enough heat.
The manufacturer of the retrofit (Current USA) states that the end cap is suppose to be water resistant.
vt (as well as other folks who have posted): please keep in mind that I have never attempted this specific retrofit but I believe the kit to which you refer has an external ballast.

I am lost here: Why all the worry about heat dissipation with an external ballast?


If I should just bite the antique bullet and cut/drill into the hood ...
Per previous posts and IMHO do not even "think about it"!


I am getting glass cut to fit over the light area to keep condensation from forming on the bulb and end cap.
vt: I guess that I am lost here also as I believed that a plastic cover for the light enclosure was provided with E2?

TR
 

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Discussion Starter #7
lohachata, the lips on the hood that keep it on the tank wont allow a full covering glass top. I actually bought one and had to return it. There are lips that go inside the tank on either side of the light area and a lip running along the front of the lid.

fish_doc,
I did get it from a glass co. I told them what it was for and he said the temp should be fine. I was just thinking of calling them up today to see what they would recommend to secure it. I hope they have some ideas!

jones57742, I know that electronic ballast cut down on heat, but I am still worried about the heat given off by the bulb. Should I not be? I've never had a light with an external ballast before. Also I only have the retrofit for a Eclipse 2, not an actual Eclipse Hood. I am installing it in a 1970s Metalframe hood which didn't come with a cover. I too do not want to damage the hood and am not planning on it.

Thanks for all the advise guys! I'm open to any ideas/advice I can get.
 

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jones57742, I know that electronic ballast cut down on heat, but I am still worried about the heat given off by the bulb. Should I not be? I've never had a light with an external ballast before. Also I only have the retrofit for a Eclipse 2, not an actual Eclipse Hood. I am installing it in a 1970s Metalframe hood which didn't come with a cover. I too do not want to damage the hood and am not planning on it.

vtg: No you should not be.

The energy dissipated to the atmosphere (ie. heat) by the bulb is negligible but the energy dissipated to the atmosphere by the ballast is significant even though I believe that your kit has an electronic ballast.

Please note that, as best as I can ascertain from research, the heat generated by an incandescent bulb is approximately twice that generated by a magnetic ballast and the heat generated by a magnetic ballast is approximately twice that generated by a high end electronic ballast.

Also please note that one my MH fixtures has an external ballast and that I placed this ballast on a table approximately one foot proximate to my tank.

TR
 

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I wont have to worry about frying eggs on my Metalframe!
vtg: not necessarily as I forgot to mention that heat dissipation can occur due to poor electrical contacts.

Power your lamp up and after 2 hours place your hand on all portions of the plastic plate*: you should only some warmth (like 5% of the heat experienced when touching an illuminated incandescent bulb) along the plate but if you experience a hot area near the connector then ....

*Could you respond to my "plastic plate" question as I am really curious here?

TR
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
It is warm to the touch after 5 hours, totally touchable and not hotter near the end cap.

I have the retrofit for a Eclipse 2, not an actual Eclipse Hood. It only comes with the ballast, end cap, reflector plate, accessories for wiring and attaching, and a bulb. The retrofit wouldn't come with a plastic cover, because if you had the E2 hood you would already have a plastic cover and not need another one.
 

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It is warm to the touch after 5 hours, totally touchable and not hotter near the end cap.

I have the retrofit for a Eclipse 2, not an actual Eclipse Hood. It only comes with the ballast, end cap, reflector plate, accessories for wiring and attaching, and a bulb. The retrofit wouldn't come with a plastic cover, because if you had the E2 hood you would already have a plastic cover and not need another one.
vtg: sounds like we are cooking with gas here and I appreciate the response as I now understand.

Did you get the cover plate issue under control? and if so what was the solution?: if not I may have an idea but it will take a little while to explain and a couple of photographs would be very useful (a couple from underneath the hood, one from the hood, and two transverse views).

BTW: I have been so focused on the heat issue that I forgot to ask you THE most critical question: Are you into dark blue or light blue up there in NC?

Surely you do not believe that either can overcome the Burnt Orange and White in the Tournament? :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

TR
 

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Discussion Starter #13
jones57742: I'm not really a fan of any colors. I typically cheer for the Maroon and Orange of VT, but that is only Loyalty to my sister's stomping grounds.

I have sort of figured something out but it may not last long with water and heat. I used adhesive sided magnet on both the hood and the glass and let the magnets hold together.

I'll post pictures soon!
 

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I have sort of figured something out but it may not last long with water and heat. I used adhesive sided magnet on both the hood and the glass and let the magnets hold together.
Very good thinking and way better than my idea.

Just curious though was the magnet "attracted to" the hood?


I'll post pictures soon!
I would very much appreciate this for my elucidation.

TR
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The magnets are not attracted. I was hoping they would be, but alas Stainless Steel is apparently not magnetic.

I will get those pictures up asap, I've had family visiting this weekend and now it seems work as taken over. When I get a few minutes to myself I will look through my old pics and send you some before and after shots of the hood with and without the glass cover added.
 

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The magnets are not attracted. I was hoping they would be, but alas Stainless Steel is apparently not magnetic.
vtg: hence my question.

Please keep in mind that I am not deep into "Materials Science" but

My belief is now that your hood is not pure stainless steel (as if such a thing existed) and
  • [1] that it is just a thin laminate of stainless over "something else" or
  • [2] that it contains many other metals or impurities
which when drilled may corrode.

TR
 

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would you like to make a hinge for the glass??...that way it will be more stable and you could lift it like a regular canopy.... and you won't have to order special parts from anyplace.
 
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